More, more 3-D photos. This time in the latest black & white technology. Ever wonder what happens when Fomapan 100 Black & White film meets a plastic 4-lens Nishika camera and go at it in Paris and Amsterdam? Well wonder no more !
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Some time ago I came across this thread in a forum and I recognized the style of photos. I always liked them but I assumed that most of them used $300 ND filters which I didn’t have intention to buy. But seeing good results from a cheap piece of welding glass got me interested. I got a smaller piece of glass first, but it was very prone to light leaks.
I then purchased a much larger one ( able to fit over my 10-22 wide angle) for $6 at the local hardware store and use a reverse fitted lens hood to attach it to my lens with rubber bands. I still get occasional light leaks, especially shooting in bright sunlight so at one point I will buy a cheap filter and glue it to one.
When shooting I use a tripod and a remote shutter release. Two issues to look out for when shooting with a piece of welding glass attached to your lens:
1) Manual Focus. Focus before you attach the piece of glass because it is so dark that once attached you will have a hard time focusing. After focusing I set it to manual focus so it stays in position
2) Manual White Balance. I only recently figured that one out. My welding glass gives me a very greenish tint ( the reason a real ND filter costs a couple of hundred dollars more). But if I set the white balance manually it removes most of the greenish cast and then shooting RAW gives me post processing control to to really take care of the issue.
As you see though in the end my images end up as black and white images because somehow the photos work better in that way for me.
These were the first two photos I took with the welding glass. They were exposed at about 30 seconds at F11. I got up to 2 minutes with F22 but having a camera on a slippery rock with a piece of welding glass attached with rubber bands makes me want to shoot a bit faster. Most images are shot at 45 secs in RAW at f11.
This was the second time I went out with the welding glass. I hadn’t figured out the manual white balance yet so the greenish tint was removed in Photoshop. In the first image you can see the light leak that forms the big circle. I have taped up the edges of the glass but I don’t know if it has really helped. These days I put my lens cleaning cloth on top of the lens and glass when shooting hoping to minimize the light coming through.
My third time experimenting. When shooting with such a high f stop I need to remember to clean my sensor and lens as you can see some of the dirt on my lenses.
And finally my latest experiments. Stationary objects with flowing water around them really makes this technique shine.
Lucky 100 SHD Black and White film all the way from China. Google told me it’s specifically produced in Baoding in the Hebei province. Wiki then told me that those metal balls people move around in one hand that you find in Asian gift in the west are actually originally from Baoding and also carry its name and then twitter told me to shut up
So moving on, this is a very affordable film (=cheap). It works well, normal exposure, fine tones, not grainy (shouldn’t be since its 100 film).
Nice and cheap, what’s not to like?
The photo’s were shot with my Olympus mju II or Epic Stylus for you ‘mericans or µ2 for you perfectionists out there.
Kodak Tri-X 400, black and white film. Released in the 1940′s and according to the Kodak website “the world’s best selling black and white film”. This is a classic film and hardly in need of a review. So I won’t. Here are my pictures. Taken with a Canon SLR and 50mm. It was incredibly grainy though, I have shot with this film before and this is the first time I got such results.
Fuji Neopan 1600. This is the fastest film I’ve ever shot. I shot this in combination with my Canon SLR 500 and 50mm lens. Shooting wide open at 1.8 and 1600 film means I’m able to photograph in almost any dark situation. I don’t shoot too often in such dark circumstances so it’s usefulness to me is questionable.
These were shot all over Singapore
Kodak Black and White 400 Tmax. Shot with my Canon 500 and 50mm 1.8. A smooth grain black and white film. Not as much contrast as I am looking for in Black and White film, but easily remedied in any editing program.
Friend of mine
Thaipusam image I shot to finish this roll. Look for other thaipusam photos on the rest of my blog.
Peaches in concert in Singapore and yes thats an outfit made of breasts.
Outside at Clarke Quay.
My favorite image from the roll.
The following photos were taken in Seoul, South Korea with my Olympus Mju2 aka MjuII aka Epic Stylus.
Pretty good film. It was my first time shooting with APX 400. Relatively little grain. I will pick this up again.
Fujifilm Neopan Acros 100 is a black and white film. According to comments online it is renowned for its fine grain. I tend to push the contrast so it may not be so apparent in the images I present.
All pictures were taken with a film Canon EOS 500 with a Canon 50mm 1.8 lens. All shot at f2.2
I tend to shoot a lot of pictures from the back. It is interesting how much somebody’s back can say.
Devotee right after getting his cheeks and tongue pierced. A long bare-footed walk in the hot Singaporean sun still awaits him.
I like how his walking staff divides the frame in two. Devotees with heavy kavadis or people wearing the wooden shoes with nails would use these nicely decorated walking canes.
I like this film. It has great tonality. As long as you expose correctly and don’t blow out your highlights you are able to get some great black and white images and with some post processing you can really achieve the look you are looking for. I do acknowledge I process in a heavier contrast than others may prefer.