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Tag "cross"

Buckle up ! And here we go.

I went trough most of my scanned film and picked out the various types of films I have cross processed along the way. Results always vary so I thought this would give a nice overview. Off course these results aren’t representative of all situations. Variations are depending on film lab, processing, use of expired film, time of the day, the stock market in Japan, whale routes in the Atlantic, so basically everything.

Roll 1: Fuji Sensia 100 Expired and very green shot with a Canon 500.

100 sensia mju2

Roll 2: Fuji Sensia 100 Expired, much better balance in colour tones shot with light-leaky Olympus mju-2

sensia 100 mju2

Roll 3: Fuji Sensia 100 expired, shot with a Holga and a heavy tint of Pink/purple.

provia 100 expired holga

Roll 4: Fuji Provia 100 expired, shot with Golden Half and same as roll 3, a bit pink.

provia 100 gh

Roll 5: Fuji Provia 400 expired. Unlike its brother, no Pink ! Greener tint.

provia 400 expired

Roll 6: Fuji Tungsten 64, shot with Canon 500 and a hint of a blue tint, but pretty balanced.

tungsten eos 500

Roll 7: Kodak Ektachrome, expired. Taken with an Olympus Trip.

echtrachomre 100 trip

Roll 8: Kodak Ektachrome, FRESH, taken with a leaky Olympus mju 2.

kodak echtachrome mju2

Roll 9: Kodak Elite Chrome, FRESH, shot with Holga, muddy looking results.

kodak elite chrome 100

Roll 10, Lomo X-PRO 100, fresh. bit underexposed but maybe due to Sprocket Rocket.

lomo xpro viet

Roll 11: Lomo X-PRO 100, fresh. Bright colors, hard contrast, current favorite xpro film.

lomo xpro

Roll 12: AGFA CT precisa, fresh. My all time favourite but dead xpro film. Hard contrast and vibrant colours. I will miss you CT precisa ( the new version is not the same, imposter !)

Agfa CT precisa holga

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Accoring to Wikipedia Cross processing (sometimes abbreviated to Xpro) is the procedure of deliberately processing photographic film in a chemical solution intended for a different type of film.

This normally means taking slidefilm (E-6) film and developing it as if it was regular negative film. This results in shifted colors and stronger contrast.

So why would any sane person do this?

1) It’s fun and unpredictable. You never truly know what you will get. Especially if you throw expired film into the mix
2) Developing as slidefilm is more expensive, so its actually cheaper to develop as slide film is you are able to find a lab

The following photo’s were taken with my Holga and Kodak Ektachrome E100S. This was then crossprocessed and scanned to show the sprockets.  And the results are uh, well uh, green. Kermit-the-frog-exploded-in-my-camera-green. In my past experience the green shift has never been this strong with Ektachrome, but in this case it went all the way.

On the left is hotel I stay at for business in New Jersey and on the right is an abandoned housing complex in Singapore now used by the military for practice urban warefare.

Flying over Chicago after the midwest.

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Kodak Elite Chrome Extra 100 (EBX) Medium format film taken with a Lubitel 2 and then cross-processed. The cross-processing gave this film more contrast, deeper black and more saturation. I liked the effect and was glad there wasn’t a huge color shift. Images may not be as interesting, but that is more the fault of the person holding the Russian camera.

I was thinking a whole series of the front of shops in Chinatown would be an interesting theme. But again I think too much and do too little.

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I saw Ndroo’s (great Singaporean photography blogger) awesome double exposure photo’s some time back and I wanted to do something similar. I followed his instructions which are found here. But when I was putting up negatives to my laptop screen I was wondering if it wouldn’t be easier to just shoot images on my laptop screen.

Target

I would be able to find more unique picture and have more control. I set up my tripod and went to work. I scoured the internet and found suitable images. I didn’t want images with a lot of detail of small pieces. Very clear two color images with a strong edge. I followed the instructions and shot 1 stop under, but looking at my pictures now I will shoot my next roll at the correct exposure just to make sure the white are non-transparent.

I did have trouble pulling the film back out of the roll. I tried various methods including licking another piece of negative and sliding that in which didn’t work but I did get to taste film chemicals for the first time. I tried cutting small hooks in another film roll which also didn’t work.My last and worst idea was tying a piece of string to the end of film so I could pull it out later, I don’t have to tell you that failed miserably.  In the end I had the people at my filmlab pull out the film leader and luckily they didn’t ask why there was a piece of string tied to my film.

I used my Canon EOS 500 SLR and Kodak Tungsten Film. I chose to use my Canon film SLR, because it always positions the film in the same way so they images will always overlap perfectly. The Kodak Tungsten was expired and cross-processed which explains the blueish color shift.

I think this is a really fun and creative project. I hope this inspires you to go out and shoot some, like it inspired me.

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Fuji slidefilm 100 Sensia. Shot with my Canon 500 and 50mm lens. The results have a strong contrast and heavy green tint. Not as green as previous tries with this film.

Not a great film to shoot people due to the skin color with but street scenes turn out decently.

Give it a try if you are a fan of the color green or shoot desolate street scenes. Probably my favorite Fuji slide film to cross process.

Stepping all over Singapore

Rare sighting of Graffiti in Singapore ( off course this was government approved)

Kampong Glam.

Arab Street.

Hiding out.

Some editing trying to reduce the green tint and get more human like skin tones. Not easy working with scanned film.

Arab Street Mural.

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